I made 2 batches of these clocks and I documented them on my web page............but my photo hoster went out of business and I lost all the photos. So, I am redoing the posting here in the event others want to build this same neat clock.
I always enter patterns into Sketchup...............to understand the design..............and to look for errors. Most plans have at least one error in them, I have found.
As-Received Parts for this Project
The plans say to drill a 3/8" diameter hole in the top trim piece to accept the top finial. The top trim piece is 1/2" thick, so this would seem to be about right.
The finial that ScrollerOnline sent as part of this project, has a 1/2" diameter dowel on the bottom. I put the finial into the wood lathe using a 3 jaw chuck, and turned it down from 1/2" to 3/8" diameter.
I marked the center of front and RH side of mating pieces, then used Nexabond glue to join them. I erased the pencil marks after the piece was glued up.
I taped up 2 thicknesses of the maple, so I could saw 2 at a time........for 2 clocks.
I was surprised that I broke the curly cues several times while scroll sawing. The cross section is so small that they broke. I repaired some pieces, but had to re-saw some others. This was much more trouble than I anticipated! I have scroll-sawed many items, and never had breakage problems like this before.
I assembled and glued up the clock from the bottom up, on a flat piece of particle board. After I got it assembled, I noticed it is not vertical from a front to back perspective .
I had to saw with the hand jig saw a little bit, but then using a screwdriver, I was able to break the glue joint between the tall skinny center section and the next base plate up. Thank goodness I did not glue in the 4 spindles :)
I used my Wagner Saf-t-Planer attachment on the drill press to plane the top of the clock parallel to the base:
The biggest lesson I learned was the importance of making sure all the sub-elements are square as you assemble and glue up the clock. Use an angle guide as you glue up the 3 boxes that make up this clock. If necessary, use the Wagner saf-t-planer in the drill press to make the tops parallel to the bottoms.
Another lesson learned is how to scroll saw these patterns. I broke two of them which is unusual. I had more success drilling the small hole in the center of the curly-cues. This leaves less time where these small curly-cues are under bending stress.
I made several of these clocks in 2015 as family xmas gifts.
Each time I visited my son's house, I thought how nice his clock looked....................so in Jan of 2018 I decided to make one for myself to keep.
When I built the first two, on 1 of them, the clock turned out to be crooked when it was fully assembled, and I had to rework it. See this story above.
I decided to be extra careful in the assembly of the 3 boxes, to avoid the crooked clock syndrome. I ordered the parts to build 1 clock. It was $80, most of the cost was the wood. I have a little walnut in inventory, but not enough to build a complete clock.........so I decided to buy all the wood needed.
On the ScrollerOnline web site, they did not list the clock movement as being available for purchase. I called them, and they had over 20 in stock, but for some reason it was not showing up on their web site. She took my complete order on the phone.
I placed the dry assembled clock on my table saw work surface, since it is very flat. The clock looked ok to the eye, from a leaning perspective. I tried to use the digital angle finder on top of the clock, to assess how much it was leaning in front-to-back, and side-to-side directions. I had to push down on the assembly, and I got readings from 0 to 0.35 degrees. I still did not like how the dry assembly rocked a little bit when I pushed down on it.
So, I took the 3 boxes to the electric miter saw, and "fuzz sawed" a little from each end of the 3 boxes. When I got done, there was no more rocking of the dry assembly.
In retrospect, I could have made all 3 boxes about 1/4" longer in height than the plan, then miter sawed both ends of each box to insure perpendicularity of the assembled clock.
I did have to saw a little off the ends of the 4 spindles so they would fit loosely at assembly.
I basically sequentially worked my way up the clock in many clampings. The basic process was:
-position piece to be glued onto its mating lower piece
-by eyeball or measurements, get the piece in its proper place
-mark the correct position with temporary blue masking tape
-use masking tape to know where to place and clamp the part to be glued
-clamp using 1/4" scrap pieces as protectors, so as to not dent the wood with the clamp fingers
-place in oven at 115F for at least 15 minutes for glue to set
-start on glue and clamp-up of next piece.......etc
If I was building a bunch of these clocks, I would design a fixture that would allow all the pieces to fit at one time in the proper location, then 1 clamping would clamp them all..........versus about 6 different clampings like I did.
If I build another one, I think I would build the 3 boxes about 1/4" longer than plan, then use the electrical miter saw to trim each end until the final dimension is achieved. The 3 boxes did fit in my Makita miter saw ok.
I would also build a fixture to properly hold the parts for final glue up of the walnut pieces. There is no easy way to use a square as you assemble to make sure each element is oriented correctly.
In Dec of 2020, looking at this clock, the long center spindles probably show too much of the 1/4" end lengths, both top and bottom. Probably nobody but me notices it, but on future clocks I might want to shorter the height of the middle column and even shrink the maple scroll saw piece height a smidgeon, to get a perfect fit on the 4 long spindes.