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More Wooden Padlocks

 

I decided to make 2 more of the same design wood locks...and give them away as Christmas gifts.

When sawing the 2 slots for the ash springs, I found the ending orientation of the 2 springs was closer to the target if you use the back saw to completely saw the slot, then use the electric saber saw to increase the slot width to math the thickness of the spring. Cutting the slot 1/2 way with the back saw, then saber sawing, did not give as good of spring orientation results.

I am temporarily out of red padauk and purple heartwood. (except for some very small scraps too small to make a complete lamination) I decided to make 1 lock with alternating dark walnut and white maple.  For the 2nd lock, I decided to go walnut, maple, red oak, maple, walnut. To spruce up the alternating walnut and maple lock, I bought a cheap set of dowel cutters. I experimented and decided to use 1/2" diameter plugs of one purple heartwood and 2 plugs of red padauk. The secret of using these plug cutters is to run the drill press at slowest speed....faster speed burns up the wood and bit.


 The 2 blue marks on the left show the target position for the 2 ash springs.

 

 



 I checked the scale in the book, and I had to reduce it to 98% to make right size photocopy for the patterns. I used a 2" hole saw to cut the ID. Then I cut on the bandsaw using the white glued on paper patterns as a sawing guide.

   


 When I made the first lock, I only had a dull plain steel 3/8" round-over bit.  I bought a new set of carbide round-over bits and used the 3/8" on these 2 locks. The difference in cutting was dramatic, and I had less sanding to do after routing

 

  


 I then glued and clamped 1 lock in the vice and the other on a table with a guide.

 

 

Note that I printed off nice big numbers 1-5 and white glued them onto each lamination.  You constantly refer to the lamination number, so this made it a lot easier than reading pencil numbers, which did not read too well.


 I filed downed the keys until they worked smoothly. I also kept the dis-assembly knob on these 2 locks because it was a very popular feature on the first lock....so people can see how the ash springs work by pulling out the knob and turning the key.

Now we are ready to move to finish sanding with 220 grit black wet sanding paper and first coat of polyurethane.

 

 

 

 

The top circle is purpleheart, the bottom 2 are padauk.

I did not make sure the grain of the colored plug ran the same direction as the lock laminations.  Maybe I should on next lock.  Oh well, these are hand crafted....and not intended to be perfect. Besides, it gives the lock a distinctive and unique look!

 

 

 The book author suggests using a 3/16" round-over router bit to radius the edges.  I only have 1/8 and 1/4" round-over bits.  He also says to route in steps to avoid end grain tear-out. I used 1/4" bit and did it in 3 steps, but had 1 corner tear out on pass #2.  

 I was able to glued it back together and it did not show after last pass.  Be careful of router feed direction on future locks to avoid future tear-outs.


 

And now for the finished wooden locks.......

 

 

 


 

 

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